Written for SA2Eire by a Member
Our 2 euro cents worth…
There are many of us in the “older” age group looking to make a significant change and take the plunge into a move to Ireland. This can be, and is, very intimidating. Especially if it is your first time moving to a new country. Since no one size fits all, it is very difficult to give definitive advice. So we can only share our experience and observations, which will differ from others.
Unless you have lived outside of South Africa (not short holidays abroad, but actually being immersed in another country’s lifestyle, culture and people), you will arrive with preconceived ideas based on your reality of how things work, or should work. Ireland is a different country. Even though many of us choose Ireland for our European roots, the way things work here differs from what we know.
And you are not going to change that.
Our story in short
We are both 58 and moved to Wexford to semi-retire in a safe environment. “Safe” in the context of comparing it to life in South Africa. We were coming from Qatar in the Middle East, where we had lived for the past 13 years.
My wife has a heart-related condition. She was fortunate enough to be referred to a specialist in Ireland by her treating physician in South Africa, who she had remained in contact with while we were in Qatar. That referral meant she got into the Irish medical system soon after arrival. Which perhaps proves the old adage: it is not what you know, it is who you know. With a heaped teaspoon of good luck on top.
The scouting trip
We were in the fortunate position to afford a scouting trip to Ireland in September 2019 before making the big move, and we managed to identify a home to buy during that trip. Our non-negotiables were:
- Lock-up garage
- Craft room
- Well-appointed kitchen
- Built-in cupboards
- Single storey (many houses here have bedrooms upstairs with very steep, narrow staircases)
- Spacious
- Rural but close to a town, medical services and hospital
- Move in and live
We had several properties identified from Daft.ie and viewings set up before arriving. Agents were responsive to our enquiries, despite what others have experienced. But none of the properties we had listed met our needs. The pictures did not match what we saw in real life. The houses were much smaller and in a poorer state than they appeared online.
We took a drive around the area we liked and spotted the property we eventually bought with a “for sale” sign outside. We contacted the agent, had an impromptu viewing with the owner’s son (which was an experience in itself), made an offer, and went through with the transaction.
Physically met the agent, the actual owners, or the solicitor during the entire process. We only met the solicitor after arriving in Ireland to finalise some paperwork.
The terminology shift
Getting used to Irish property terminology is a thing in itself:
- Seller = Vendor
- Estate Agent = Auctioneer
- Attorney = Solicitor
The transfer took four months from offer to completion. The process is quite different from South Africa. All correspondence between the buyer’s and seller’s solicitors is by post. Which adds time, but the postal system here is amazingly efficient. Right up until the last moment, there is always a chance the deal can fall through. Ours did not, luckily. We moved in two months after taking ownership, right before COVID lockdown in March 2020.
The container and arrival
We moved across with a 40-foot container holding most of our personal possessions. It was sent from Qatar, cleared on arrival, and delivered two days later by a great team on 26 March, right at the start of lockdown.
We had no problems with customs clearance, although there is always concern in the back of your mind. We had correctly declared tools and crafting material in the inventory. Both of those apparently attract customs attention, as they can be seen as starting a business and therefore attract duties. The import agent asked for, and we provided, a letter stating the items were all for personal use and not for income generation. It appeared some boxes had been opened for inspection.
Settling in: the unexpected bits
Although we bought a well-established and fairly modern property, there are always things that need doing. That is a challenge in itself coming from an environment where we had help in and around the home.
My wife had joined local community forums on Facebook and was added to a WhatsApp group long before we moved. So we were already familiar with activities and happenings in the community before arrival. Through this group, we were lucky to get a great handyman-builder recommended, who then had contacts for painting, plumbing, gardening and electrical work. All the things we needed to get the place up to standard.
Not all tradespeople provided great service. We are still waiting for an electrician who quoted in April to get back to us. Three other electricians have since been and gone without a word. This seems to be the way it goes here.
If it had not been for SA2Eire… not sure how we would have done the rest!
Unexpected challenges
1. Gardening
Grass grows fast here. So do weeds. Hedges (which you are not allowed to trim between March and August) grow fast too. Mowing lawns, weeding beds and keeping a big-ish yard is a full-time and tiring job. You also have to buy the mower and equipment. And if you do not have a compost heap, you have to pay to dispose of your garden cuttings. Burning the waste is against the law.
2. Making friends
Bearing in mind we are in a rural setting, so fewer people and fewer chances to meet, it is generally difficult to make friends. The Irish, in general, do not entertain at home. So do not expect an invitation to dinner or a braai. They are very family-orientated, often coming from large families (7, 12, even 17 children) all living in the same area for generations. Some of their houses are tiny, known as a “two up, two down,” which literally means two rooms downstairs and two rooms upstairs. The friends we do have here are mostly South Africans, families of mixed nationality, or widely-travelled Irish folk.
3. Medical
There does not seem to be the same urgency as we are used to. Appointments can be booked far into the future. Doctors are not necessarily as accessible as we might expect. We were lucky to register with our local medical centre during COVID, which surprised many.
4. Sharing banking details
When ordering things over the phone (heating oil, electricity, waste collection, firewood), be prepared to give your debit or credit card details including the digits on the back. Over the phone. To a stranger. It is all about trust here.
5. Waste management
This takes getting used to. There are specific rules about what goes into which bin. If you generate a lot of waste that cannot go in your regular bins, you have to pay to dispose of it.
6. Red tape
From our perspective, there is a lot of “unnecessary” red tape, especially around health and safety. Some of it seems a little over the top. Licensing of premises to prepare and sell food. Limited issuing of permits for food or coffee wagons. Contractors required to use rechargeable power tools only. Safety harnesses mandatory to climb on roofs.
No “tuis nywerheid” or “boer maak ‘n plan” here.
You can DIY around the home, but you lose your right to claim from insurance if electrical work goes wrong and was not done by a registered, insured electrician.
7. Car insurance
In Ireland, insurance is linked to the person as well as the car, so no two premiums are the same. In South Africa, premiums are based on the make and age of the car, and essentially anyone can drive it. Here, the car is linked to specific people and their risk profile determines the premium. Even when taking a courtesy car from a dealer, we had to have our insurance temporarily transferred.
8. Building regulations
No compliance certificates are required when buying a property. No electrical certificate of compliance. No wood borer certificate. Irish electrics are quite the eye-opener.
Some alterations and additions are allowed without planning permission, but nothing can change on the front-facing elevation without approval.
It is also very difficult, if not impossible, for someone who has not lived in Ireland to buy a vacant piece of land and build on it. Regulations differ from area to area. Many South Africans have been surprised by this. Access to land and building permission is largely reserved for those with existing local heritage.
What has been refreshing
1. Opening a bank account
As Irish passport holders (also applies to EU citizens), you can apply for an AIB account from an app on your phone once you are in Ireland. No proof of address required. The account is open within about a week.
2. Post
Everything is sent by post, and it works. Usually no more than two days after being sent. Even medical appointments are confirmed by post. Not email. If you ask for email, they will still post the letter.
3. Exchanging driver’s licence
You need proof of residence with a date within the last three months. Other documents as per the official site.
4. PPS number and Public Service Card
We had our PPS numbers before arriving, as we needed them to buy the property. It is a fairly easy process with the correct documentation.
5. Buying a car
Straightforward. We bought cash through a dealer and had our cars within a few days. Insurance was more expensive without SA no-claims history. We used a broker, which turned out cheaper than going direct to the companies. The same broker sorted our house and contents insurance.
6. Utilities
All done online or by phone. Electricity, heating oil, broadband. Quick and painless.
7. Eircode
Like a postcode, but unique to your home. It works for everything, especially deliveries.
8. Safety
This has been the most refreshing part. Going for walks in remote places. Taking in the beauty of the country. Feeling safe while doing it. Leaving our doors open till late in the evening to let the fresh air in.
Final thoughts
Everyone’s means, needs, expectations and desires differ. What is a challenge to one person is an opportunity for another. We can only recommend coming here with an open mind, and being prepared for both unexpected surprises and some frustration with things not being like you are used to.
They are not. This is a different country with its own history and its own way of doing things.
Hoping to meet up with some of you at some stage of your journey.
More reading: Why are Pensions in Ireland such an excellent investment vehicle to build up the funds which you’ll need for retirement?
